Raphael and I sat in the backseat of his parent's micro Chevy as we raced through farm fields, forests and mountain valleys. The rain pelted the windows and fog hung across mountain peaks. The beginnings of German architecture hinted at what was to come. It was very green and wet. I was a little chilly and kept a jacket over my legs. We began to climb into the mountains on winding roads and the steep slopes around us were covered in pine. These were the same trees that dropped those delicious pine nuts. Some crazy drivers zoomed around us and took perilous passes with oncoming cars. It was a little scary at times. The fog grew thicker and Raphael's dad had to focus his attention on the sudden stops of trucks and other vehicles.
We stopped into a little town known for sweater production. The parents had a smoke break. We walked around a bit and I took some shots of mannequins in the various shop windows. These were the first of many who were picture worthy. One store was called 'Dakota' so I had to have my picture taken in front of its sign. The day was getting colder and damper and the chill was setting in. All those sweaters were starting to look mighty inviting. It was apparent that I probably wasn't going to have the right clothes for this weather.
A short time later we drove into Gramado and parked at a favorite Italian place that Raphael and his parents like. I was thrilled to get inside. It was toasty and felt great. It looked and felt like we were actually eating in northern Italy. The food was tremendous and it definitely warmed me up. Some wine helped. Full of pasta and other dishes we proceeded to our inn. It was time for a nap. I looked forward to a homey room with warm lighting and big, heavy blankets. That fantasy was dashed rather quickly. What we found were spartan spaces with one, dim light in the center of the ceiling. Only a single heating register set against the wall. The TV was compact and hung on the ceiling across the room. You needed the Hubble to see it. In the bathroom, the icy, yellow tile gleamed dully under one ceiling bulb. Even the towels seemed to shiver as they hung limp. The rooms had the ambiance of a storage container with beds. I jumped under the blankets and pressed against Raphey. Our bodies warmed and the sleep felt great. When we awoke, neither of us wanted to get up because we knew we would feel like we were stepping onto tundra tile.
What had happened was Raphael's mother could not get us in anywhere decent for the night. Everything was booked and this was one of the few places available. The outside was charming and it looked inviting but you really needed a snowmobile suit to wear while walking to and from the bathroom. The lodge was even colder. There was a huge fireplace in the lobby that could have been roaring for its guests but it sat dormant. The lighting was dim. A small area to the side of the great room had a small TV showing soccer. A few tables were scattered around with magazines and chairs. You could tell the place had been really nice at one time but the current owner was not living large. The view was great...had we seen it. The fog was so thick one could only make out images, fifty feet hence.
That night we drove into downtown Gramado and walked around. It was a beautiful resort town. It kind of reminded me of Vail, Colorado. All of the architecture was either German, Italian, Swiss or a hybrid of all three. (not that I really know the exact difference between Swiss and German architecture but I know there is nuance.) The shops were pricey. We had coffee in a cafe that was sweetly charming and European. The chocolates were tremendous. It felt like Christmas. People were bundled up. All that was missing was snow. And, I guess that happens every ten years or so. It was actually about 45 degrees but it felt like 25 to me. I could not get warm. I bought a stocking cap and wrapped my muffler tighter. By dinner time I was more than ready to get into some place warm. Raphael kept laughing at me because of my Northern Plains roots. I guess my blood has thinned by living in Florida. I get cold in Fort Lauderdale too. If it falls below 50, I need electric socks. Luckily, we were seated next to the fireplace in the restaurant. It was a fondue place like I had never seen before. Who knew you could dip so many different things in so many different things. The table was full of bowls of horse radish, vinaigrette, farofa (yucca flour), grape preserves, orange preserves, aioli (garlic mayonnaise), ketchup, mustard and cottage cheese. After dipping our skewered chicken, beef or pork in the hot fondue pot, we would swirl away in these dips. Prior to that we dipped tiny little potatoes and stale bread into cheese. That was delicious until the apples, kiwis, grapes, bananas and papayas were dipped in chocolate. It was truly decadent. WARM and decadent. I just wanted to curl up next to the fireplace and fondue myself into slumber. With all this eating and the wine included, I felt like a Zurich street car. It was bliss.
After the glorious dinner dip we returned to the Igloo Inn. I managed a hot shower and survived the arctic run to get into bed. I found some extra blankets on another bed and nestled in. The heat register was working a bit better but I felt like I would see my breath by the dawn's early light. In addition to the refrigerated conditions, there was a very active and verbose child next door. The parents didn't seem to notice the walls were thin. So, now we had a screaming child and hypothermia to worry about. Raphael fell asleep within seconds of hitting the bed. He could have slept through Pearl Harbour. I of course, lay awake and tried to make sense of Portuguese language TV. It appeared Bruno was getting into deeper problems. I was able to make sense of him hiring somebody else to do the dirty work. It appeared that he enlisted a killer to whack his girlfriend....and feed her to the dogs! Some things translate better than others; especially when there are re-enactments. Such grisly, sordid tales are enticing but all I really wanted was the weather. If it was to be rainy and foggy the next day, we would cancel our trip to the wine country. No point in trying to imagine what is right in front of you. Earlier in the evening the fog had been so thick in Gramado that I didn't even know I was standing in front of its massive cathedral. When I saw a postcard of what I missed, I was amazed.
I kept flicking through the channels....there was a tour of the Brazilian countryside showing people living off the land; a cop show about the dangers of Sao Paulo; a nineteenth century period Telenovela with beautiful young actors and flawless skin; a wacky variety show with people dressed as leopards....you get the idea. No Chelsea Lately here. After two hours of waiting for news and weather teasers, I gave up. I did get several Bruno updates before retiring, however.
It was Alaska-ish when we woke up. I gritted my teeth and got dressed as fast as I could. Isabel, Claudio, Raphael and I drove down to the lodge for breakfast. I thought this time the owner would have to stoke up that big fireplace for the diners. Wrong again. It was damp and cold in the main dining room. There was only light from a hanging fluorescent in the middle of the cathedral ceiling. He obviously needed some design help in addition to his heating loss woes. The spread, however, was ample. Lots of meats, pastries, breads and jams. I enjoyed one particular concoction called a pao de queijo (a little ball of cheesy bread.) I think I ate about 19 of them. The coffee was hot and it seemed to help my body temp stay relatively stable in the upper 90s.
I waddled outside on the terrace and took some photos. The fog was amazing as it rolled in and out of the valleys beyond. The rain was coming down in buckets. Rhododendron plants surrounded the building and along the road tracing up to the lodge. At Christmastime they would be in bloom. It must be incredibly beautiful. The place had such potential if it were to be fixed and given some flair. The porch was broad and deep. The windows large. It had definitely seen better days. If I ever return, I am bringing my space blanket and leg warmers. Raphael and I continued to peer into the valley until two rather conspicuous German Shepherds appeared out of nowhere. Raphey indicated it was like a scene out of 'Twilight.' Their presence hastened our retreat inside.
We sped down the mountain and out of town through the heavy mist (and not because of the dogs....) Even though the atmospheric conditions left something to be desired, I enjoyed what I could see. I have always loved foggy mountaintops and dripping eaves. Such scenes are romantic to me. Next time I hope to view it all with sun and get the full effect. The European flavor of this region was stunning. I only knew I was in Brazil because I knew I was in Brazil. Otherwise, if I had suddenly awakened in the car, my first guess would have been Bavaria. If I had awakened in the motel room...most likely, Belarus.
I wrapped up my legs in a blanket and held Raphey's hand as his dad whisked us back to Montenegro. It felt cozy and sweet to be with my baby in the back of the Selta while his parents listened to Tango music. I got so sleepy I couldn't keep my head up. I drifted off while rain patted the back window. I got dreamy. This was a far away world for a guy who grew up in Spearfish, South Dakota.
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